Bermondsey: the Beer Mile and everything around it
Railway-arch taprooms, one of London's best wine kitchens, White Cube and the walk home down Bermondsey Street.
The brief
Bermondsey is a set of railway arches with a Saturday habit. It is the best afternoon drinking in London, and — because of one small importer with a kitchen — also one of the best lunches.
The Beer Mile
Start at Anspach & Hobday, then Brew By Numbers, then Kernel Brewery Taproom — the arch that started it. Cloudwater London and Moor Beer Vaults keep the standard high further along. Seating is a crate, tables are shared, and nobody minds.
Do it Saturday, start at midday, and accept that you will not get past arch five.
Where to eat
40 Maltby Street — a wine importer with a short, brilliant menu and the best counter lunch in south London. Book, or arrive when it opens.
Where to drink properly
The Woolpack and The Dean Swift for pubs that hold their ground between taprooms. Kanpai for sake brewed in SE16, which is exactly the kind of thing this postcode does without announcing it.
Culture and coffee
White Cube Bermondsey for the largest commercial gallery in Europe, free and usually excellent. WatchHouse on Bermondsey Street to recover afterwards. London Glassblowing if you want to make something with your hands.
One rule
Eat first. The arches are unforgiving on an empty stomach.